Visiting Michigan: The Great Divide – LP vs. UP

Before visiting Michigan in my Pleasure-Way XLTS, everyone raved about the UP – the Upper Peninsula. You have to go there, they told me, firing off suggestion after suggestion. Very few people mentioned the LP, the Lower Peninsula at all.

Well, I’m mentioning it – because the Lower Peninsula is an underrated gem and absolutely worth exploring.

In my experience, the truth is simple: you should visit both.

Michigan is a fantastic state to explore by RV. I found plenty of boondocking options, and when those weren’t available, there was no shortage of affordable campgrounds. Traveling through the state felt easy, welcoming, and surprisingly diverse.

I entered Michigan from Canada, crossing the Blue Water Bridge, then headed north into the “thumb” of the mitten. (If you’ve never heard that expression, the Lower Peninsula really is shaped like a mitten.) From there I traveled west to Grand Rapids, north again to Traverse City, and eventually crossed into the UP.

What surprised me most? Just how much I enjoyed the often overlooked Lower Peninsula.

Highlights from the Lower Peninsula (LP)

Lighthouse County Park & Pointe aux Barques Lighthouse

Located along the rocky shoreline of Lake Huron, Lighthouse County Park is a beautiful place to watch the sunrise and spot ships passing quietly in the distance. Adjacent to the park sits the historic Pointe aux Barques Lighthouse – one of the oldest active lighthouses in Michigan.

The small maritime museum is well worth a visit, offering insight into the area’s rich Great Lakes history. There’s even a former lighthouse keeper’s residence available for overnight stays. The nearby campground sits right on the lake and offers full hookups. I stayed here for three nights and couldn’t have asked for a more peaceful, scenic stop.

Frankenmuth

Frankenmuth is quirky, festive, and unapologetically Bavarian. Known for its old-world charm, specialty shops, and traditional food, it feels like a small slice of Germany tucked into Michigan. Festivals run throughout the year, drawing visitors from all over.

I spent several hours wandering the town, soaking up the atmosphere – and yes, I may have indulged in a few giant Bavarian soft pretzels along the way.

Grand Rapids

I usually avoid larger cities during my travels, but I’m glad I didn’t skip Grand Rapids. The city is clean, vibrant, and full of life, with great restaurants, music venues, and things to see and do.

It’s also home to the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library, set along the river with beautiful grounds and gardens. Grand Rapids completely exceeded my expectations and ended up being one of my favorite stops in the LP.

Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park

This is a truly special place and an absolute must-stop. The gardens are beautiful, the setting is serene, and the sculptures are nothing short of spectacular. The Meijer family created something remarkable here for everyone to enjoy.

I took the guided tram tour through the sculpture park, which was incredibly informative, then walked the grounds afterward to revisit my favorite pieces up close. It’s impossible to fully describe the scope and creativity on display – you really have to experience it for yourself.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Sleeping Bear Dunes is one of the most unique places I’ve ever visited. The largest dune rises more than 280 feet above Lake Michigan, and climbing it is no small task. The soft sand and steep incline will test anyone’s endurance.

If you think reaching the top means you’ll immediately see the lake – think again. There are several more dunes to cross before the water comes into view. And if you do make it all the way down to the lake, save your energy – the climb back is even harder. Many people underestimate it and requires rescue, which can be very expensive.

I made it to the top, enjoyed the panoramic view, and decided that was enough for this guy.

Nearby, the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive offers a beautiful 17-mile loop through forested hills and bluffs overlooking Lake Michigan – an excellent, less strenuous way to take in the scenery.

Tunnel of Trees

A friend suggested this drive but warned it might be tight for my rig. The Tunnel of Trees is a narrow, winding road – about a lane and a half wide – that parallels Lake Michigan for roughly 20 miles.

My Pleasure-Way made it through just fine, though I did pull over a few times to let oncoming traffic pass. Driving beneath the canopy of trees felt peaceful and timeless. I would absolutely do this drive again.

Highlights from the Upper Peninsula (UP)

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Located near Lake Superior, Tahquamenon Falls State Park is Michigan’s second-largest state park and a true UP treasure. The park features waterfalls, hiking trails, river canoeing, and vast stretches of undeveloped wilderness.

The falls are divided into Upper and Lower Falls and are often called the “Root Beer Falls” because of their golden-brown color. The tint comes from tannins released by cedar swamps upstream. Well-maintained paths make viewing both falls easy, and camping options – both inside the park and nearby boondocking areas – make it a great place to linger.

This stop wasn’t planned – I noticed it on Google Maps and decided to detour – but it became one of the most memorable experiences of my trip.

Located at Whitefish Point on Lake Superior, the museum tells the human stories behind the shipwrecks of the Great Lakes, including the Edmund Fitzgerald. Walking through the exhibits gave the lake a whole new weight and meaning.

Later that evening, parked near the shoreline, I found myself watching the same waters those ships once crossed. RV travel has a way of slowing you down and placing you right where history happened – and this stop was a powerful reminder of that connection.

Big Springs (Kitch-iti-kipi)

Known to the Ojibwe as Kitch-iti-kipi, meaning “The Big Cold Spring,” this is one of the most mesmerizing natural sights in the UP. The spring produces more than 10,000 gallons of crystal-clear water every minute.

A self-operated observation raft glides slowly across the spring, allowing you to look straight down more than 40 feet to the sandy bottom. From above, the sand appears to “boil” as water bubbles up, and ancient tree trunks rest preserved in the cold water below.

Quiet, peaceful, and hypnotic, this place invites you to slow down and simply take it all in.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Pictured Rocks is one of Michigan’s most iconic destinations, and the best way to experience it is from the water. A boat tour along Lake Superior reveals towering sandstone cliffs, arches, caves, and vibrant mineral streaks painted in reds, oranges, greens, and blues.

These colors come from minerals seeping through the rock over thousands of years, creating the “pictured” effect the area is named for. The scale and beauty of the cliffs are impossible to fully appreciate from land alone.

My only mistake was taking a noon tour—the sun was intense, and the harsh light washed out some of the colors. I’d recommend a late-afternoon tour for the best experience.

Final Thoughts

This list barely scratches the surface of what Michigan has to offer. I only had a few days to explore as I was on my way to an event in Idaho, but I know I’ll be back – there’s far too much left to see.

Michigan’s state motto is Pure Michigan, and it absolutely lives up to it. From wild shorelines and forests to rich history and welcoming towns, the state offers a perfect balance of adventure and relaxation.

The real Michigan isn’t divided by peninsulas—it’s discovered between them.