Written By: Margaret Kosiba
Driving through Canada for the first time was such a joy because of the wildlife. My first campsite for my Plateau TS was the Prairie Oasis Tourist Complex In Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, which is a now a newly designed KOA campground. The campsite was an awesome drive through surrounded by conifers. It had been raining all week intermittently. Once I got the van all hooked up and settled, I noticed an incessant chatter outside. After 20 minutes of this squirrel talk, I decided to pop out and see what the commotion was all about. This little girl was either complaining because I was not feeding her, or unhappy that I invaded her space. After doing research, even though I had a long chat with her and advised I simply could not provide any food because she had a long winter ahead in Moose Jaw, I discovered that the American Red Squirrel is known for its territorial nature! These squirrels are native to Alberta, Canada; they primarily feed on the seeds of conifer cones, and they are distributed across much of the United Stated and Canada wherever conifers are common. What a lovely welcome to Canada on my first night! She is beautiful.
Driving from Fort Nelson to Lake Muncho in British Columbia, I decided to stop by the Tetsa River Lodge and Campground, located at historic mile marker 375. Cinnamon rolls are a known weakness, and the Andrew’s family have had three generations to perfect their recipe as well as their meats, all made by hand on premises. It proved to be the perfect break.
But immediately after visiting this lodge, I was so happy that I was driving slowly because I came upon a mother black bear eating fresh red berries while here three cubs were playing together and trying to climb up a quaking aspen tree, which is common in British Columbia. My photo session was short lived as other campers pulled up behind me. The mother scurried about and convinced the little ones it was time to to move closer to the forest interior.
Right after photographing this foursome, I noticed a black mass moving through some tall, thick, brush to my left, eating the same type of red berries as the mama black bear. He was quite coy, traveling alone, and stubbornly refused to show any more than 20% of his massive body. Ne noticed a break in traffic and sped across the highway behind my van and dissapeared into thick brush. He moved very quickly and did not facilitate any photographs due to his camouflage expertise!
Traveling further west, Muncho Lake (translated from the Kaska Aboriginal name to mean ‘big water’) was stunning with its deep aqua green coloured water. It is 7.5 miles long and striking against the stone-coloured mountains upon entry and the deep green boreal forest. When I saw how beautiful it was, I was glad that I had decided to stay the the Northern Rockies Lodge at site #1, a deluxe beach site right on Muncho Lake. A bright yellow float plane was docked next door! Just before I turned the corner to the lode, however, I noticed a small group of stone sheep on the edge of the highway. This was not a safe place for them, so I stopped, put my emergency flashers on, and started photographing all of them. They are quick and nimble, and it is fascinating to see both the young and old climb uphill – their movements seemed effortless. I found it impossible to video admonishing them to move uphill quickly to avoid danger, as they are very young sheep and stayed close to their mothers, followed in synchronized steps, and glided up the hill like gazelles.
I did not have time to stop at the Toad River Lodge (Mile #442) on the way to Muncho Lake. But I noticed the Reflection Lake behind the lodge and a pond on the other side. I made a mental note to return- that I did the next day. When I asked the server at the for a BLT, she responded with, “Do you like Moose?” I said, “Not to eat!” She laughingly said “No, there is a female moose on the lake! You should take a look while I prepare your sandwich.” It only took a few seconds to grab my telephoto and race to the outdoor patio. There she was, up to her neck, as if on a special spa day. She was eating wet, marshy grass, and it was obvious that she was ecstatically happy with her lunch. She was having so much fun, moving as if she owned the lake.
I learned in Jasper that moose can dive and hold their breath, using large nostrils as valves to keep water out. They can dive down 20 feet, and they like eating aquatic plants She mentioned that if an angry moose is chasing you, you must climb a tree because they can run 30 – 35 mph, and are excellent swimmers! After taking about 100 photos, I asked if I could walk around the pond by the campsites. As I got out of my Silver Plateau, the campers there saw my telephoto and yelled at me to come quickly. There was a male moose grazing just beyond the pond! Another one hundred photos, and then they called to advise the female moose was stepping out of the water. What a delightful day! TWO moose! Everyone was so friendly, and I met another camper here with twice the focal range on her camera. Such a lucky gal and having so much fun photographing these awesome moose. I wholeheartedly recommend camping here one or two nights because the campers noted they saw two female cows with their two baby calves the day before, They wanted to know what is was like traveling alone. This happens all the time. They were such happy, congenial people.
Before returning to Muncho Lake, there was a Caribou Crossing sign. I thought to myself, “Gosh, I would love to see a caribou.” And then, out of nowhere, on the right side of the road was a very young caribou. It acted like it had gotten separated from others, and was racing around in circles including on the highway. I immediately pulled over, stopped the motor, and just sat there. The anxious caribou quieted down, stared at me for a few moments, then quickly ran off into the thick brush. I am so hoping she caught up with her family. I had the opportunity to visit the Yukon Wildlife Preserve north of Whitehorse. I learned that both male and female caribou grow antlers as opposed to most other species of deer. Male caribou antlers can be fifty-one inches long whereas a female caribou antlers can reach twenty inches. They fall off and grow back every year, covered by velvet to protect the skin and blood vessels as they develop. I got to see a two-year-old reindeer with massive antlers, recovering from an injury at the Yukon Wildlife Preserve.
I left early in the morning from Muncho Lake and found myself enveloped in very heavy fig. Just past the hot springs, the wide grazing land on either side of Highway 97 exposed a herd of wood bison, numbering about one hundred. Wood bison differ from plains bison (Yellowstone Cluster State Park) with large triangular heads, more prominent shoulder humps due to their mountainous habitat, and less head hair. Wolves and grizzly bears are the feared predators. A superb tour guide in Jasper National Park noted that they can jump siz feet high and run 35 mph. This herd was just east of the Liard River Hot Springs. I stayed on the shoulder of the road with my disaster lights warning ttruck drivers for more than an hour hoping the heavy fog would lift. They were driving approximately 15mph over the speed limit, so I did not like this truly dangerous situation with slow moving bison crossing the busy highway.
On the day I was driving to Whitehorse, I spotted the stateliest bald eagle perched on a tall conifer tree. He was obviously on alert, looking for prey. He gave me enough time to back up my Plateau TS to a perfect spot on the shoulder of the road directly across from him (absolutely no traffic!) , roll down the window, grab the telephoto, focus, and start shooting. He was so kind to take his time looking for prey. But suddenly, he gave me the “get Ready” “Get Set” and “Go” motions. How awesome to capture all three movements. Alas, I only got a blurred bald eagle in full flight though! I am hoping to see more eagles in Alaska, my next stop.
During my trip, I was able to see other wildlife by visiting the Yukon Wildlife Preserve in Whitehorse. On this preserve tour, we were able to see wood bison, moose, a herd of elk, a two-year-old caribou with huge antlers, stone sheep, and mountain goats; the musk ox were adorable. The lynx were not in the mood to come out and say ‘hi’. And we saw red foxes simply playing with eachother on the preserve. I noticed many people coming here to just walk through the preserve to see these animals, and some rented bicycles to do the same. This was a very worthwhile experience to see what one man with a third-grade education and deep connection to wildlife was able to develop for wildlife in their time of need. I highly recommend visiting this preserve when you are in whitehorse, and taking the formal bus tour; the tour guides are unbelievably knowledgeable and passionate about wildlife.