Written by: Lisa & Anthony Petrarca
We’ve visited Southern Utah many times. It was actually the first wild camping we did when we bought our 2015 Pleasure-Way Lexor back in 2020. The options are endless (campgrounds, wild camping, hiking for every skill level, and endless glowing red cliffs). This trip, however, was one for the books…our adult kids agreed to go with us! Now, if you have grown kids, you’ll understand what an undertaking it is to gather together for family dinners, let alone an out-of-state hiking trip.
I won a long-awaited, coveted lottery ticket to hike arguably one of the most beautiful hikes in all of Zion National Park, The Subway! After showing them the pictures… they were easily convinced to join us!
We never want to waste a trip opportunity, so we headed to St. George, Utah the week before our big hike to check off a couple bucket list spots. And you know we’re sharing all of it, because wow—the beauty is incredible. Our first stop was a State Park with easy access, dog-friendly, short half-mile beginner hikes and jaw-dropping views. Our six-month-old pup is still limited in hiking distance, so this was a perfect fit.
Snow Canyon State Park – Ivins, UT
We were able to get a last-minute campsite, putting us right in the center of what’s often referred to as “mini-Zion” (think epic sites without the crowds). We hiked several short hikes in the day and at night, I (Lisa), went stargazing—it’s a spectacular dark sky park. Anthony, on the other hand (who’s not much of a star guy), relaxed in the van watching “Point Break” for the 100th time with the pup. The beauty of vanlife… a little something for everyone, right?
Campground Information
- Located among red sandstone cliffs and ancient lava flows
- Open year-round
- Approximately 38 sites
- Reservations strongly recommended in spring and fall
- Amenities include:
- Water and electric hookup sites
- Tent sites
- Flush toilets
- Hot showers
- RV dump station
- Picnic tables and fire rings
- Two group camping areas
Popular Hikes
The hikes are located directly off the main road. We did three half-mile hikes in one day before it got too hot:
- Jenny’s Canyon Trail (short slot canyon, family/pet friendly)
- Pioneer Names Trail (historic carvings + amazing views)
- Sand Dunes (rolling red/orange dunes right next to parking lot)
On day two we hiked the Butterfly Trail and parts of Lava Flow and Sand Dunes.
Here’s a list of hikes to choose from to fit every skill level. Be sure to know your limits, especially in heat and bring tons of water:
- Petrified Dunes Trail – 1.2 miles round trip (Easy)
- Sand Dunes Trail – 0.5–1.0 miles round trip (Easy)
- White Rocks / White Cathedrals Trail – 4.0–4.5 mile loop (Moderate)
- Hidden Pinyon Trail – 1.5-mile loop (Easy)
- Jenny’s Canyon Trail (slot canyon) – 0.5 miles round trip (Easy)
- Lava Flow Trail & Lava Tubes – 2.5 miles round trip (Moderate)
- Butterfly Trail – 2.0 miles round trip (Easy)
- Pioneer Names Trail – 0.5 miles round trip (Easy)
- Scout Cave Trail – 4.5 miles round trip (Moderate)
- Whiptail Trail – 6.0 miles one way (Easy)
- Johnson Canyon Trail – 2.0 miles round trip (Easy, seasonal)
- West Canyon Trail – Up to 7.4 miles round trip (Moderate)
- Padre Canyon Trail – 7–8 mile loop (Moderate to Strenuous)
We wish we had more time to explore this park and we’ll definitely be back! Be sure to put this one on your list…it’s pretty spectacular.
Sand Hollow State Park – Hurricane, UT
This is another park that’s been on our list for far too long. We couldn’t believe we were able to score both campgrounds back-to-back on the same trip.
Sand Hollow is one of Southern Utah’s most popular outdoor playgrounds, where red sand dunes meet a turquoise reservoir—it’s a rare place where you can camp on the water, ride dunes, and swim all in the same day.
We had big plans—kayaking, drone shots, ATV riding—but the weather had other ideas.
What we actually did:
- Day 1: Set up camp and walked by the lake.
- Day 2: Stayed inside the van during a 40–60 mph wind storm.
We were very grateful to have our van—it kept us safe and comfortable through it all. Over the years, we’ve learned to hold our plans loosely because you never know what can happen out on the road.
Camping options (weather permitting):
- Westside Campground — full hookups, showers, flush toilets
- Sandpit Campground — close to dunes, OHV access, can be noisy
- Beachside Camping — lake access with sunset views
- Primitive Camping — quiet, basic, no hookups
Reservations are highly recommended during peak season.
Things to Do
- Boating & water sports (wakeboarding, jet skiing, kayaking)
- Swimming & beach days on red sand shores
- Sand Mountain dune riding (ATVs/UTVs)
- Fishing (bass, crappie, catfish)
- Sunset photography over dunes and water
- Stargazing
We plan on returning to do all the things we missed this trip.
The next day, two of our kids arrived. They’d never been to Zion National Park, so we drove the famous SR-9 scenic highway. We pulled over at several viewpoints, and Zion did what Zion does… it pulled everyone in, my son randomly started running up a cliff to see more while we were trying to take pictures of him.
What can we say, “It just happens here!”
When we finally reached the end of the road, we continued toward Kanab for more short hikes. Here’s our off-the-beaten-path (aka less crowded) day trip with some optional food/add on stops:
Zion → Kanab Itinerary
Morning: Zion → Mt. Carmel Junction (SR-9 Scenic Drive)
- Zion east entrance tunnels and red cliffs
- Scenic overlooks along SR-9
- Canyon-to-desert transition
Stop 1: Belly of the Dragon
- ~15–20 minute stop
- Walk through sandstone tunnel
- Easy roadside adventure
Stop 2: Kanab Sand Caves (Moqui Caverns)
- ~30–60 minute stop
- Steep sandy climb
- Cave exploration + overlook views
Lunch in Kanab
- Rocking V Cafe – burgers, pizza (we loved it)
- Wild Thyme Cafe – healthy bowls and wraps
- Brown Box Cafe – comfort food
- Kanab Creek Bakery – coffee and pastries
Optional Kanab Stops
- Local souvenir shops
- Historic downtown Kanab
- Coffee or dessert break
Afternoon / Sunset Options
- Explore red rock around Kanab
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park detour
- Return through Zion East Mesa viewpoints
- Possible bison sightings along the drive
It was a perfect day trip that was not too exhausting so we would save energy for our upcoming big hike.
The Reason We Came – The Unicorn Hike!
Now it’s time to get into the details…you know, the reason we came! The day before our main hike, we went to Zion National Park Visitor Center to pick up our permits, review trail rules and weather conditions. That night, the last of our kids arrived and we spent the evening prepping our gear and loading up our backpacks for the 9-mile once-in-a-lifetime hike.
The Subway – Zion National Park, Utah
The Subway is one of Zion’s most iconic and hard-to-get-to hikes—a surreal, tunnel-shaped canyon carved into red rock with emerald pools and waterfalls.
Only ~80 permits per day are issued, and conditions must be perfect.
We couldn’t believe the beauty of this place. It was truly other-worldly! There was constant route finding, waterfall climbs, and boulder scrambling. We took our time, had snack breaks and even stopped at a rock with dinosaur footprints in it. When we finally entered The Subway, we were met with glowing canyon walls and emerald pools. We’d managed to arrive right as the sun glistened directly onto the water giving it this epic effect. At one point, we even had the entire Subway to ourselves! We made sure to swim in the icy cold pools to the waterfall at the end to truly experience all this hike had to offer. A lot of people miss this last part…make sure you do it! This hike was exciting, beautiful and exhausting, especially climbing up the 400 ft cliff at the very end. But hands down the best part was having our kids experience this with us. When we arrived back at the van we were all tired and worn out—but every single one of us agreed it was worth the struggle.
Permits + Rarity
- Bottom-Up (non-technical) – lottery permit required
- Top-Down (technical canyoneering) – advanced permit route
- Very limited daily access
The “Unicorn Hike” Factor
- No rain forecast (flash flood risk)
- Stable weather required
- Safe water levels required
You need:
- Permit luck
- Good physical fitness
- Perfect weather window
Difficulty
- Bouldering and scrambling
- Route finding (no marked trail)
- River walking and wading
- Log crossings and muddy terrain
- Long, exhausting return hike
The Grand Finale
- Iconic Subway tunnel canyon
- Emerald pools and waterfalls
- Freezing cold water (we swam in it!)
- One of the most photographed spots in Zion
The Climb Out
- ~400 ft steep sandstone exit
- Loose sand and exposed scrambling
- Extremely tiring after canyon travel
Why It’s Legendary
- Rare permits
- Extreme physical challenge
- Weather dependency
- Unreal natural beauty
The Final Hike-Last But Not Least!
Now you may be thinking that was the end of this trip. Wrong! We had one last hike to share with our kids, (after a full day of rest of course.)
This is one of our favorites, just 30 minutes past St. George, heading north on the I-15.
A hike we always return to when visiting Utah, which should tell you something because we rarely do the same hike twice. It requires a permit/lottery ticket but it’s much easier to get. We’ve been hiking this one before it became internet famous, back when they didn’t charge, and the slot canyon ladders were makeshift logs with metal slats. A rope was attached to the wall for balance. Recently, they’ve added a stair-step ladder with hand rails. It’s definitely safer but not as aesthetically pleasing. Still, we knew it’d be the perfect end to their Zion/Southern Utah experience.
Kanarra Falls
Kanarraville, UT
What the Hike Is Like
- Desert approach trail
- Creek walking through canyon
- Boulder hopping and scrambling
- Ladder climb (~15–20 ft)
Waterfalls + Slot Canyon
- Narrow glowing sandstone walls
- Small cascades and pools
- Two main waterfalls
- Tight canyon sections after ladder climb
Conditions
- Cold water year-round
- Slippery rocks
Why It’s Special
- Slot canyon + waterfall combo
- Limited permits
- Less crowded than Zion Narrows
- Feels like a mini expedition
Kanarra Falls is one of those hikes where every turn brings a new “Indiana Jones” feeling to the hike as you move through water and narrow canyon walls until you reach a hidden waterfall that feels almost unreal.
The kids loved this short, easy hike to end this epic family adventure.
Thanks for joining our road trip! We hope you get to experience some or all of these incredible places one day!
Be sure to save this for your next Southern Utah/Zion trip.
